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	<title>Comments on: What&#8217;s in your soil?</title>
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	<link>http://landscapenewengland.com/whats-in-your-soil/</link>
	<description>A resource of inspiration &#38; guidance for New England home gardeners and landscapers.</description>
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		<title>By: Steve McRae (Landscape Consultant &#38; Designer, Entrepreneur)</title>
		<link>http://landscapenewengland.com/whats-in-your-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-678</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve McRae (Landscape Consultant &#38; Designer, Entrepreneur)</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Apr 2011 12:14:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://landscapenewengland.com/?p=256#comment-678</guid>
		<description>This is right off one of the Ohio State University Cooperative Extension website (BELOW). They are very helpful if you locate one that is in your neck of the woods. My suggestion is COURSE sand, but I have no idea what your soil conditions are. If you are going to use only compost and COURSE SAND I&#039;d recommend adding some bagged garden soil to the mix also. Also composted manure, sphagnum peat moss, even some pea stone won&#039;t hurt if your soil is somewhat compacted. Course sand helps the soil&#039;s drainage and aeration. Keeps it from getting too compacted over time. You&#039;ll have to experiment. There is no set formula for perfect soil and obviously soil conditions vary from area to area. Use the information below for a guide and if you really want to find out what&#039;s in your soil take a sample and have it analyzed.

Texture and Structure

Soil texture and structure can be modified by using soil conditioners. Soil conditioners act to improve soil aeration, drainage, moisture-holding capacity and tilth, or workability, of the soil. Commonly used soil conditioners include compost, peat moss, sawdust, wood chips, composted animal manures, green manure crops, coarse sand, and perlite. By incorporating coarse, rather than fine sand, and organic matter into a garden soil, the gardener can, over time, produce a desirable loamy-type soil. The addition of fine sand to some soils, especially clay, however, will be detrimental to the soil structure.

A common mistake made when attempting to improve garden soil is failing to use enough soil conditioning materials. For chiefly clay or sandy soil, large amounts of conditioners must be used to effectively improve texture and structure.

Condition the soil by applying 3 to 4 inches of organic matter and, if available, 1 to 2 inches of coarse sand uniformly over the surface of the garden. Till or spade the material thoroughly into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is right off one of the Ohio State University Cooperative Extension website (BELOW). They are very helpful if you locate one that is in your neck of the woods. My suggestion is COURSE sand, but I have no idea what your soil conditions are. If you are going to use only compost and COURSE SAND I&#8217;d recommend adding some bagged garden soil to the mix also. Also composted manure, sphagnum peat moss, even some pea stone won&#8217;t hurt if your soil is somewhat compacted. Course sand helps the soil&#8217;s drainage and aeration. Keeps it from getting too compacted over time. You&#8217;ll have to experiment. There is no set formula for perfect soil and obviously soil conditions vary from area to area. Use the information below for a guide and if you really want to find out what&#8217;s in your soil take a sample and have it analyzed.</p>
<p>Texture and Structure</p>
<p>Soil texture and structure can be modified by using soil conditioners. Soil conditioners act to improve soil aeration, drainage, moisture-holding capacity and tilth, or workability, of the soil. Commonly used soil conditioners include compost, peat moss, sawdust, wood chips, composted animal manures, green manure crops, coarse sand, and perlite. By incorporating coarse, rather than fine sand, and organic matter into a garden soil, the gardener can, over time, produce a desirable loamy-type soil. The addition of fine sand to some soils, especially clay, however, will be detrimental to the soil structure.</p>
<p>A common mistake made when attempting to improve garden soil is failing to use enough soil conditioning materials. For chiefly clay or sandy soil, large amounts of conditioners must be used to effectively improve texture and structure.</p>
<p>Condition the soil by applying 3 to 4 inches of organic matter and, if available, 1 to 2 inches of coarse sand uniformly over the surface of the garden. Till or spade the material thoroughly into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil.</p>
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		<title>By: bern beatty</title>
		<link>http://landscapenewengland.com/whats-in-your-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-677</link>
		<dc:creator>bern beatty</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Apr 2011 10:58:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://landscapenewengland.com/?p=256#comment-677</guid>
		<description>I need sand (or rock dust maybe) to mix with compost for raised garden beds.  I am confused about river sand vs alternatives, screened/unscreened, &quot;non-suitability&quot; of play sand, horticultural sand, sharp sand, mortar/concrete sand, builder&#039;s sand, et al.  Can you help enlighten me and make a recommendation?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I need sand (or rock dust maybe) to mix with compost for raised garden beds.  I am confused about river sand vs alternatives, screened/unscreened, &#8220;non-suitability&#8221; of play sand, horticultural sand, sharp sand, mortar/concrete sand, builder&#8217;s sand, et al.  Can you help enlighten me and make a recommendation?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Steve McRae (Landscape Consultant &#38; Designer, Entrepreneur)</title>
		<link>http://landscapenewengland.com/whats-in-your-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-393</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve McRae (Landscape Consultant &#38; Designer, Entrepreneur)</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Feb 2011 19:21:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://landscapenewengland.com/?p=256#comment-393</guid>
		<description>Hi Michelle,

I&#039;d say you are right on track with the hard pack. It&#039;s probably crushed blue stone or something similar. Over time it will be like cement. You&#039;ll need at least 3-4&quot; of the stuff and it probably wouldn&#039;t hurt to put it over some 3/4&quot; crushed stone to help with drainage. You can also use a good packing sand. Rent a compacting machine to ensure there are no soft spots. Make sure you get it leveled so it does not pool water. If there is potential for a water issue, then the crushed stone with some perforated drainage pipe (black corrugated pipe. Comes in 100&#039; coils. If supported on both sides by stone you can walk on it). I&#039;m trying to cover some of the issues you might have. If you are near a slope that might drain water to the area, then a drainage ditch or pipe in some crushed stone to catch the run-off would be a good idea. What you don&#039;t want is this stuff to be constantly wet underneath. I don&#039;t know if the turf product you are looking is permeable and will let water run through it. If not you might consider drilling small holes in the turf to allow for drainage also. All this is speculative because I can&#039;t see the site and I don&#039;t know the product. Your soil conditions are not real conducive to good drainage so for me that would be a prime consideration. I hope this helps. Please feel free to update me or ask more questions. - Steve</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Michelle,</p>
<p>I&#8217;d say you are right on track with the hard pack. It&#8217;s probably crushed blue stone or something similar. Over time it will be like cement. You&#8217;ll need at least 3-4&#8243; of the stuff and it probably wouldn&#8217;t hurt to put it over some 3/4&#8243; crushed stone to help with drainage. You can also use a good packing sand. Rent a compacting machine to ensure there are no soft spots. Make sure you get it leveled so it does not pool water. If there is potential for a water issue, then the crushed stone with some perforated drainage pipe (black corrugated pipe. Comes in 100&#8242; coils. If supported on both sides by stone you can walk on it). I&#8217;m trying to cover some of the issues you might have. If you are near a slope that might drain water to the area, then a drainage ditch or pipe in some crushed stone to catch the run-off would be a good idea. What you don&#8217;t want is this stuff to be constantly wet underneath. I don&#8217;t know if the turf product you are looking is permeable and will let water run through it. If not you might consider drilling small holes in the turf to allow for drainage also. All this is speculative because I can&#8217;t see the site and I don&#8217;t know the product. Your soil conditions are not real conducive to good drainage so for me that would be a prime consideration. I hope this helps. Please feel free to update me or ask more questions. &#8211; Steve</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Michelle Krassowski</title>
		<link>http://landscapenewengland.com/whats-in-your-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-392</link>
		<dc:creator>Michelle Krassowski</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Feb 2011 18:49:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://landscapenewengland.com/?p=256#comment-392</guid>
		<description>Hi;
I run a doggy daycare out of my home and am thinking of installing artificial turf to cut down on the mud.   I live on top of a mountain so my soil is mostly clay and rock.  The installation instructions for the turf that I have seen online say to lay a layer of crushed aggregate under the turf.  Do I want to use what you call &#039;hard pack&#039;?  I can&#039;t imagine that using any sizable stone would be easy to level or even comfortable under your feet.  
Thank you.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi;<br />
I run a doggy daycare out of my home and am thinking of installing artificial turf to cut down on the mud.   I live on top of a mountain so my soil is mostly clay and rock.  The installation instructions for the turf that I have seen online say to lay a layer of crushed aggregate under the turf.  Do I want to use what you call &#8216;hard pack&#8217;?  I can&#8217;t imagine that using any sizable stone would be easy to level or even comfortable under your feet.<br />
Thank you.</p>
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		<title>By: Prostate Cancer Symptoms</title>
		<link>http://landscapenewengland.com/whats-in-your-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-63</link>
		<dc:creator>Prostate Cancer Symptoms</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 May 2010 09:45:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://landscapenewengland.com/?p=256#comment-63</guid>
		<description>This is such a great resource that you are providing and you give it away for free. I enjoy seeing websites that understand the value of providing a prime resource for free. I truly loved reading your post. Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is such a great resource that you are providing and you give it away for free. I enjoy seeing websites that understand the value of providing a prime resource for free. I truly loved reading your post. Thanks!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: CNA Salary</title>
		<link>http://landscapenewengland.com/whats-in-your-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-62</link>
		<dc:creator>CNA Salary</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 May 2010 05:14:20 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>this post is very usefull thx!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>this post is very usefull thx!</p>
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