What’s in your soil?

by Steve McRae (Landscape Consultant & Designer, Entrepreneur)

Good organic soil crossection

What's in your soil?

Soil Conditions – Loam – Sand – Crushed Stone – Gravel

What kind of soil conditions exist below the grassy field or in the woods that you are thinking of clearing or using to expand your landscape? If you have existing soil you need to examine, take soil samples and find a reputable test facility in your area or take it to your local university extension office for testing. There are kits available which allow you do your own tests, but they are not as reliable as a professional quality testing facility. Many engineering firms that design septic systems have soil testing facilities. Call and arrange to pick up a test kit from them or have the firm do it for you. After you get your results back you may wish to amend (enhance or improve) your soil to balance your pH, improve the organic base or make it more conducive to a specific landscaping project.

Taking a soil sample with a digital meter

Soil Sample

What kind of soil, sand or stone do you need for your next landscaping project? Below are some terms that you will run across when you go to purchase aggregate, sand or loam. An aggregate can mean many things so always ask what’s in the aggregate blend. Aggregate is commonly used as a term for crushed stone, but in reality it can be any kind of mixture of stones or soil.

Thesaurus: aggregate ‘noun’ 1. the specimen is an aggregate of rock and mineral fragments: collection, mass, agglomeration, conglomerate, assemblage; mixture, mix, combination, blend, accumulation; compound, alloy, amalgam.

Amended Enhanced Organic Soil

Good Dirt

You are also going to encounter terms like unscreened loam, screened loam, screened sand or washed sand. Question the size of the screen. 1/2″ screen is a highly screened loam where as a 2″ screen will be full of rocks under 2″ in size. You get the meaning? 1/2″ screen removes anything in the soil aggregate that is over 1/2″ in diameter to a degree. The screen might be 1/2″ by 4″ so you may get an occasional chunk of stone or organic material larger than 1/2″.

Soil or Good Old Dirt

  • Screened Loam is usually screened to 1/2″ so anything over a 1/2″ in diameter is removed. The screens are not 1/2″ x 1/2″. They are usually 1/2″ x 6″ or 8″ so something long and flat or a stick may be present in the aggregate. Loam can be organic containing sticks, weeds, grass and weed-seeds or washed with weed-seed killing chemicals. Ask if it matters to you. Screen loam will usually come in a variety of mixtures by bag or in bulk and be careful that it is not mostly sand. Ask to see it dry if it is wet. You want loam that will stick together somewhat when dry. That means it has the right mix of loam, organic materials and sand. Some loam is sand free, but you need to ask what mixture you are buying.
  • Farm Loam is usually the richest loam you can buy. Unscreened it comes directly off the fields to you, however, it is usally sold as a mixture. Farm loam is regularly mixed with sand and compost materials to lighten its structure. Unmixed farm loam can pack like concrete when it dries out and must be regularly cultivated. If you do get loam directly off the fields unscreened it is best to mix your own before using it for planting beds or lawns. I use sand, peatmoss, bagged organic compost and dried manure to make a rich soil that also drains well. When specific plants call for specific soil conditions mixing your own is a great idea.

Compost – organic materials combined, “roasted” and screened.

  • High in nutrients and a great addition to your soil.
  • Use in garden beds or when installing a new lawn or overseeding an existing lawn.
  • Other applications include use in container gardening and indoor plants with the right mixture of loam and sand.

Bank Run Gravel – Gravel pit special. From the earth directly to you for fill. Not screened and contains almost anything.

Crushed Stone (Sometimes referred to as aggregate in the industry)

  • 3/4″ granite – Drainage, economical decorating choice for walkways and around shrubs or trees. Usually installed over landscape fabric.
  • 1 1/2″ granite – drainage above or below grade, drywells
  • Hard Pack – aggregate of various sized stone and stone dust for driveways and some situations it may be used under walkways or patios or in combination with sand where speedy drainage is an issue.
  • Stone Dust – crushed aggregate that packs like concrete. Sometimes used for base under walkways, patios and stonewalls where drainage is not an issue. Not good for drainage and misused a lot under walkways and patios. Questions? Send me one. I’ll explain further and respond to your specific conditions.
  • Colored Crushed Stone – This can be granite, slate, marble quartz or even crushed field stone. Usually comes in 3/4″, 1/2″ or 1/4″ sizes.
  • Pea Stone or Peastone – 1/4″ round stone that has been screened. Usually contains a lot of stone dust.
  • Round Stone – screened natural round stone that can come in sizes from 1/2″ up to 3″ or more. Starts becoming wall stone when it gets over 6″ in diameter.

Sand (To do most landscaping jobs right you need sand that is specialized for your need whether it be for drainage, masonry, walkways, patios, play areas, pond bottoms and beaches or even zen gardens.

  • Screened Sand/Concrete Sand
    • Screened to a 1/4″; clean fill, soil corrections, building pads, backfilling, etc.
  • Play Sand
    • Perfect for sand boxes, play areas, beaches and volleyball or badminton courts.
  • Ball Field or Packing Sand
    • Firmer with a clay additive for a denser, softer mix that packs well enough to use as a base under patios and walkways and still allow for excellent drainage. Use on athletic playing fields, horse shoe pits and horse stalls or barns.
  • Sand Fill
    • Great for leveling off areas before applying topsoil
    • Fill for areas you need excellent drainage such as behind retaining walls or a base for a large terracing project where drainage will be critical.
  • White Trap Sand
    • White sand for golf course sand traps or zen gardens.
    • Sometimes fine enough for sand filters. Best to buy filter sand at a pool store to assure the best quality. I have used filter sand in my zen gardens purchased at pool stores.
  • Mortar Sand
    • Masonry applications.
  • Washed Concrete Sand
    • Washed sand conforming to a tight well-graded specification.

I probably missed some stuff so if you have any further questions please fill out the comment box or form on the website. I’ll be happy to answer any questions you might have or direct you to a source that can answer your question.


{ 6 comments }

CNA Salary 05/19/2010 at 9:14 pm

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Prostate Cancer Symptoms 05/21/2010 at 1:45 am

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Michelle Krassowski 02/17/2011 at 10:49 am

Hi;
I run a doggy daycare out of my home and am thinking of installing artificial turf to cut down on the mud. I live on top of a mountain so my soil is mostly clay and rock. The installation instructions for the turf that I have seen online say to lay a layer of crushed aggregate under the turf. Do I want to use what you call ‘hard pack’? I can’t imagine that using any sizable stone would be easy to level or even comfortable under your feet.
Thank you.

Steve McRae (Landscape Consultant & Designer, Entrepreneur) 02/17/2011 at 11:21 am

Hi Michelle,

I’d say you are right on track with the hard pack. It’s probably crushed blue stone or something similar. Over time it will be like cement. You’ll need at least 3-4″ of the stuff and it probably wouldn’t hurt to put it over some 3/4″ crushed stone to help with drainage. You can also use a good packing sand. Rent a compacting machine to ensure there are no soft spots. Make sure you get it leveled so it does not pool water. If there is potential for a water issue, then the crushed stone with some perforated drainage pipe (black corrugated pipe. Comes in 100′ coils. If supported on both sides by stone you can walk on it). I’m trying to cover some of the issues you might have. If you are near a slope that might drain water to the area, then a drainage ditch or pipe in some crushed stone to catch the run-off would be a good idea. What you don’t want is this stuff to be constantly wet underneath. I don’t know if the turf product you are looking is permeable and will let water run through it. If not you might consider drilling small holes in the turf to allow for drainage also. All this is speculative because I can’t see the site and I don’t know the product. Your soil conditions are not real conducive to good drainage so for me that would be a prime consideration. I hope this helps. Please feel free to update me or ask more questions. – Steve

bern beatty 04/23/2011 at 2:58 am

I need sand (or rock dust maybe) to mix with compost for raised garden beds. I am confused about river sand vs alternatives, screened/unscreened, “non-suitability” of play sand, horticultural sand, sharp sand, mortar/concrete sand, builder’s sand, et al. Can you help enlighten me and make a recommendation?

Steve McRae (Landscape Consultant & Designer, Entrepreneur) 04/23/2011 at 4:14 am

This is right off one of the Ohio State University Cooperative Extension website (BELOW). They are very helpful if you locate one that is in your neck of the woods. My suggestion is COURSE sand, but I have no idea what your soil conditions are. If you are going to use only compost and COURSE SAND I’d recommend adding some bagged garden soil to the mix also. Also composted manure, sphagnum peat moss, even some pea stone won’t hurt if your soil is somewhat compacted. Course sand helps the soil’s drainage and aeration. Keeps it from getting too compacted over time. You’ll have to experiment. There is no set formula for perfect soil and obviously soil conditions vary from area to area. Use the information below for a guide and if you really want to find out what’s in your soil take a sample and have it analyzed.

Texture and Structure

Soil texture and structure can be modified by using soil conditioners. Soil conditioners act to improve soil aeration, drainage, moisture-holding capacity and tilth, or workability, of the soil. Commonly used soil conditioners include compost, peat moss, sawdust, wood chips, composted animal manures, green manure crops, coarse sand, and perlite. By incorporating coarse, rather than fine sand, and organic matter into a garden soil, the gardener can, over time, produce a desirable loamy-type soil. The addition of fine sand to some soils, especially clay, however, will be detrimental to the soil structure.

A common mistake made when attempting to improve garden soil is failing to use enough soil conditioning materials. For chiefly clay or sandy soil, large amounts of conditioners must be used to effectively improve texture and structure.

Condition the soil by applying 3 to 4 inches of organic matter and, if available, 1 to 2 inches of coarse sand uniformly over the surface of the garden. Till or spade the material thoroughly into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil.

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